this was indeed a moment worth waiting for!In his article The Art of Telling What Happened for The New Witness Arthur Ransome commended the members of the Royal Cruising Club for their unvarnished accounts of their experiences afloat. In my brief introduction to the article I suggested that its last words ('I think I had better buy a boat') staked out an ambition that was both nautical and literary, an ambition that was to be fulfilled some dozen years later by the building of Racundra and the publication of Racundra's First Cruise.
In the 1911 article special praise was reserved for Walter Ledger's description of his cruise in Blue Bird; that description is reprinted here from a limited edition of 50 copies, presumably prepared (and hand-corrected) by Ledger himself. It is not difficult to understand the charm of Ledger's account for AR: try, for example, the poetic description of Pin Mill, the story of the saucepan (playing on the reputation of yachtsmen for borrowing things and not returning them), or his description of some 1911 Hullabaloos.
As it happens, in 1911 Ransome was introduced to Ledger by Robert Ross, Oscar Wilde's literary executor, when he was collecting material for his book on Wilde. In addition to his many other interests, Ledger was a noted bibliographer, and according to AR had a wonderful collection of Wilde books in his house at Wimbledon.
He invited me to go sailing with him, but Ross told me that at intervals he suffered from homicidal mania and was accustomed to have himself shut up. I have always regretted that I did not sail with him, for he kept his Blue Bird at Pin Mill, and, if I had gone, I should have known that charming anchorage twenty years earlier. Such eccentricity in Ledger as I saw was quite harmless. He used to come to town dressed as an old-fashioned Jack Tar, with open neck and a blue-and-white sailor collar and bell-bottom trousers. He was an extremely efficient seaman, used to make up all his own rigging, was a member of the Royal Cruising Club which I was to join a dozen years later, and in general brought a strange breath of salty air into the somewhat greenhouse atmosphere of the literary Nineties. (Autobiography, p. 142).
THE "BLUE BIRD" AMONG THE NORFOLK REEDS,
WITH SOME REFLECTIONS ON THE WATERBY WALTER E. LEDGER
A lady was once heard to say of two charming brothers, that when in the society of one, she preferred the other, and I fancy that he who possesses (or is possessed of) many hobbies, must at times experience a very similar feeling.
The thought struck me as spring was fast moving into summer, and I was still enthralled by the beauty of early flowers in my little garden.
Not wholly in the busy world nor quiteindeed, but is little heeded while the last perfection of form and colour lingers among the tall May tulips.
Beyond it, blooms the garden that I love.
News from the world comes to it . . .That longing for "the other" became more insistent while the harvesting of the bulbs was in progress (a fascinating work the tulip fancier never leaves to others), but at last, with feeling curiously blended of anxiety for the garden I was leaving, and an almost painful longing for the sea, and the little craft I was about to join, I found myself steaming out of London for a good long spell afloat.
This was to be my second season with the "Blue Bird," which I bought last year.
I had been obliged to part with the much smaller "Shrimp" – for over twenty years my faithful little ship; but for reasons of health that could not be gainsaid, she had become quite unsuitable.
The "Blue Bird" is mentioned several times by Donald Cree in his "Cruise of the 'Gulnare,'" published in last year's "Journal," but I will now describe her more fully.
A pole-masted cutter, with spoon bow and elliptical counter, and rather high freeboard, her registered tonnage is 5.09 gross, and 3.66 net tons. Length O.A. 31.3; B.P. 25.9; beam 6.9, and draught just under 4.5. She is copper-sheathed, has a lead keel, and a quantity of inside lead ballast. Originally built as a yawl, by Messrs. Garwood, of Great Yarmouth, in 1896, from designs by F. Shepherd, M.I.N.A., she was almost re-built in 1908, when she was converted into a cutter, with flush decks, lengthened and heightened, her cockpit and cabin remodelled, the new skylight giving about 5ft. 6in. headroom below. The cabin is built of teak, the sides being cedar-wood. There are cupboards on each side of the forecastle door, and I have had two sideboards placed aft of the sofa bunks, with shelves above for books, &c. Under the self-draining cockpit is placed a 20-gallon water tank, with a pipe leading to a tap in the forecastle. This is a great comfort to a single-hander, being a sufficient supply for a month. The forecastle is roomy, and has a hatch, which both lifts and slides. There is a small folding cot, of ample size for a boy, but as I never carry that source of trouble and anxiety with me, it serves as sail-locker. The double primus stove and utensils also live here, and can be manipulated while sitting in the cabin; and on the back of the door is fixed a hinged support for a wash-basin, and a box close by (both being of my own construction) holds soap, brushes, glass, &c.
An oak table that can be folded securely out of the way, a Benson swing lamp, with silk shade, net racks on each side, and an Indian matting on the floor complete the fittings of the cabin. The cushions and bunks, covered with cretonne of an old design of exotic flowers and blue-birds, give the cabin a very bright and cheerful appearance, particularly when lighted up at night. I cannot understand the preference so often shown for stuffy and dusty-looking Brussels carpet, velvet or serge for cabin upholstery, generally of dark and dull colours, ''which change," to use William Morris's phrase, "into all kinds of abominable and livid hues."
A rather tall, square boom-crutch allows of nearly standing room under the cockpit awning, so necessary for privacy in a harbour.
Wykeham-Martin roller gear are fitted to both jib and staysail, the cords leading aft with the sheets; and fixed on deck between the skylight and the mast is a kind of open box or "pound" that I made with teak battens and into which are stowed warps, fenders, and all the falls of the halyards belayed to the spiderband round the mast. The decks being rather rounded, this has proved most useful, nothing placed in it going adrift. The tiller and metal fittings on deck are of heavy gun-metal. The sail area is about 500 sq. ft., and the boat is fairly speedy, and points remarkably well, particularly when sailed without the staysail.
But I am on the point of forgetting that
L'art d'ennuyer est celui de tout dire,and must proceed to other matters.I was detained a considerable time at Pin Mill, as there was much to do on board completing the fitting-out. Besides which, I had not quite recovered from a breakdown in health last year, followed by a sharp attack of influenza in the spring, and I found I was still unequal to much continuous physical strain. This affected my little cruise throughout,– but I will not again refer to the subject, lest my yarn be thought the morbid lucubration of a hypochondriac.
Passed Shotley Point 7.40; bell buoy off Landguard Point 8. Here I overtook "Coo-ee" an aux. boeier, which had left Pin Mill earlier in the morning. Cork L.-V. 8.35; Aldborough Ridge at 12.45. The wind, light at times, followed me round Orfordness, headed me for awhile, then backed and became strong off Dunwich. By this time both wind: and sea had risen considerably, so I decided to make for Walberswick, which I had never visited.
I got in at 3, and found excellent accommodation alongside dolphins, one of several sets above the steam ferry connecting Walberswick with Southwold, "Coo-ee" coming in some time after me, moored close by. The harbour is small, but I am told has been much improved, and is pleasant and convenient. The dues on 3 tons came to 6d. The coastguard who collected it, and some fishermen, pleased with the modest tip a modest man could give, helped me most willingly to moor. There is no great depth of water here, and I was partly on the mud at low tide. A great haunt of artists; I was struck with the absence of the "tripper" element, and much enjoyed my few days' stay. Distance run, 34½ nautical miles. The next day (5th) the weather was boisterous." Estrella," R.C.C., came in. Bar. (9.20 p.m.) 29 85.
SUNDAY 6TH.– Bar. (9 a.m.) 29 95. Wind gusty and strong from S.W. "Estrella" and "Coo-ee" left early for Lowestoft. I hesitated awhile, the wind pinning me to the dolphin, but after some trouble I got away at 1 o'clock. Wind and sea both rougher than I anticipated. Off Covehithness a sudden shift of wind caught my mainsail aback, the boom snapping in two like a match, against the weather backstay. The sail fortunately held, so I carried on, but must have presented a rather forlorn appearance to the gay and fashionable throng on Lowestoft Pier as I entered the harbour at 3.30. A boatman soon seized upon me as his prey, and a gentleman came off from a yacht to help, so in a few minutes I was snugly moored.
"Wish I 'adn't 'elp'd ye, I'd 'ave got more elsewhere!" was the boatman's valedictory remark, when in a paroxysm of generosity I had given him a shilling.
As the April Baby said, "Such a child does not go to the Himmel."
When I had leisure to look round, the first face I recognised was that of my honest saucepan borrower of Pin Mill, Arthur Dumas, owner of the "Coquette," alongside of which I found myself, and by his side the kindly yachtsman who had just helped me – his friend and guest! I must not omit to state that the owner of "Estrella" also offered help when I came in. Distance run, 10½ nautical miles.
The pleasure of my stay at Lowestoft was much enhanced by the Royal Norfolk and Suffolk Yacht-Club members' polite invitation to make use of their handsome Club.
The coming Bank Holiday had brought many yachts into the harbour (where unfortunately one rolls a good deal) and the crowds and excellent music on the pier produced a very animated scene. But what interested me most was the fishing harbour with its huge fleet of trawlers, splendidly upkept, denoting much prosperity in the fishing industry.
The new boom was only fitted on Thursday, and in the afternoon of Friday, 11th, I left for Oulton Broad, Dumas and his friends, Mr. and Mrs. Hinde, coming with me for the trip. At the last moment a neighbouring yachtsman offered, with a friend and his wife, to tow us, as an experiment, with their new motor dinghy. This was delightful, but a few moments after leaving the yacht harbour the propeller broke, and, I think, to everyone's amusement, "Blue Bird" it was that towed!
We had a pleasant tea party on board at Oulton while the dinghy was repairing, and it was altogether a bright and lively scene on the crowded Broad, but overshadowed by one tall mysterious-looking figure, draped in deepest mourning, and crowned with an immense black toque, who stood impassive, gazing upon the scene from the deck of a private wherry, like
Melancholy,
Of Cereberus and blackest midnight born,
In Stygian cave forlorn
'Mongst horrid shapes, and shrieks and sights unholy.
We decided unanimously that the lady was Hamlet's aunt. But she was really a portent, for we heard this evening that the Veto Bill had passed the Lords!
Distance run; 2 miles. Oulton lock dues, 6d. Great Yarmouth river rate on 3 tons came to 9d.
I knew that, in a sea-going boat like mine, with a rather deep draught, and a fixed mast, the northern broads were closed to me. I also expected to meet with many difficulties in a craft designed for such different waters, but tout au contraire (as the Frenchman replied when asked if he had lunched on board the channel steamer), I had no trouble at all, and as far as it went, the trip was a great success.
SATURDAY, 12TH – Sailed up the Waverney to Beccles, and my first impression of the Broads was, how narrow they were! Plenty of wind made the trip exciting, as many boats were about, and catastrophes only avoided by inches. Passing through the narrow railway swing bridge gave me palpitations, but no trouble. Beccles is a charming old town, with a massive detached tower standing by the handsome old church, a landmark for many miles round. There are some good Georgian houses in the town, and eggs are only a shilling a dozen – a pleasant change from Lowestoft, where, the season being at its height, one was between the dairyman and the deep sea in that respect. Distance run about 10 miles.
A peaceful moonlit night! No rocking, and no sound save the silent music of the spheres.–
Heard melodies are sweet, but those unheardFrom Sunday to Tuesday I remained quietly busy in this haunt of ancient peace – a little varnishing, and much dozing in the glorious heat.
Are sweeter; therefore, ye soft pipes, play on;
Not to the sensual ear, but, more endear'd,
Pipe to the spirit ditties of no tone!
The tides here are quite perceptible, but the rise and fall is not much over 18 in. at springs.
TUESDAY, 15TH.—Left this morning at 10.15, with a N.E. wind, and made fast to the reeds for lunch, close to Oulton Dyke.
Somerleyton swing bridge must be under a curse, and' destined by evil spirits to inflict destruction and damnation on all who try to pass through.
Fouling a pier, but eventually passing through, after breaking every rule of good seamanship, I stopped to take breath and wipe the sweat of labour and the blush of shame from off my brow. I was, however, somewhat comforted on seeing a wherry with two men on board foul the bridge and blunder through, after me, with even less skill shall I had shown! The tides here are strong, and near the Duke's Head Hotel landing place, a projecting quay converts the stream into a mill race. I had two reefs in to-day, and No. 2 jib, and being rather exhausted by this time, I tied up for the night, walking up to the pretty village later for bread. Distance run, 11 miles of river.
WEDNESDAY, 16TH.—Thanks to the pointing qualities of "Blue Bird," I managed to sail down the New Cut, a perfectly straight and narrow canal of over 3 miles in length, impossible to tack in, connecting the Waverney with the Yare. The slant of wind barely allowed me to sail through, though I luffed at every puff. Some other boats which followed had to tow. I left Somerleyton at 10.30, but had to moor and wait till 3.15 to pass through Herringfleet swing bridge. A short way on, across the cut, is another bridge (with a shilling toll) that lifts like the Tower Bridge.
Reedham, a village at the end of the New Cut, is not a very good place for mooring, the banks being shallow, but I found a resting-place for the night further down, where some other boats lay among the reeds in the Yare. Distance run, about 4½ miles.
The evening closed in with a stormy-looking sunset, the clouds over the sky turned gradually to an enchanting amethystine colour. And listening to the silvery rustle of the tall reeds beside me, and the rhythmic lapping of the water at my foot, Beethoven's rippling melody* came to my drowsy thoughts, ere gentle sleep had slid into my soul.
THURSDAY, 17TH. – Cast off at 10.30. Wind N. by E., and very light at times, but coming up with heavy puffs occasionally. A wherry went through Reedham Bridge ahead of me, but I passed her in a calm near Hardley Cross (which marks the limit of the City of Norwich's river jurisdiction); the wind, however, freshening, she recovered her lead and arrived at Whitlingham, near Thorpe, about twenty minutes before me. It was a beautiful trip, the many bends of the river giving one every variety of sailing, and there were no more bridges once past Reedham. I realised by this time that to be quick in stays is essential in these rivers, and that a quanting-pole (I improvised one out of the spinnaker boom) is also indispensable.
The kind old skipper of the wherry helped me in the most obliging way to tie up in a good place by the bank, and then I had leisure for a cup of tea and the rest I needed and felt I had earned.
Arrived Whitlingham, 4.30. Distance run, 16½ miles.